In this engaging conversation, Tom Iannucci, a passionate pizza master from Kauai, shares his unique perspective and experience with Hawaiian pizza — a topic that often sparks debate and curiosity. From the true origins of Hawaiian pizza to its cultural perception in Hawaii and beyond, Tom offers insights into how this controversial topping combo evolved and how it fits into the broader pizza landscape today. Join us as we dive into the history, myths, and realities surrounding Hawaiian pizza, and hear about Tom’s exciting new pizza venture on Kauai.
The Origins of Hawaiian Pizza
Tom, can you tell us about the real history of Hawaiian pizza and how it got its name?
Absolutely. The story goes back to 1962 in Canada. A man named Sam Panopoulos, an immigrant who owned a pizza shop in Chatham, Ontario, decided to experiment with pizza toppings. Along with his brother, they added canned pineapple to their pizzas, combining it with cheese and ham. The pineapple came from a can labeled “Hawaiian,” which is why the pizza was named after it. They were inspired by the sweet and sour flavors commonly found in Chinese cuisine, and they liked the combination, so they gave it a try.
Sam Panopoulos, who passed away in 2017, is often credited as the father of Hawaiian pizza. Interestingly, he regretted not patenting the recipe, but as we know, recipes generally can’t be patented. Despite the controversy, if you like pineapple on your pizza, that’s totally fine — it’s a personal preference.
Was Hawaiian pizza ever really a thing in Hawaii itself?
No, it wasn’t. I moved to Hawaii in the late 1980s, and Hawaiian pizza was never really a thing here. I started making pizzas in my apartment in Honolulu in 1989, and I had never heard of anyone in the local community or families requesting pineapple on pizza. Even a friend of mine who ran an Italian pizzeria in Honolulu didn’t have it on his menu. Somehow, though, Hawaiian pizza became popular elsewhere, especially in Canada and later in the United States, where people adopted and adapted it.
Hawaiian Pizza: Perception vs. Reality in Hawaii
You mentioned you didn’t call the ham and pineapple pizza “Hawaiian” when you reintroduced it. What did you call it and why?
I called it the “haole” pizza. For those who are unfamiliar, “haole” is a Hawaiian term commonly used to describe white tourists or outsiders. I thought it was fitting because the ham and pineapple pizza really came from Canada, not Hawaii. I wanted to make a distinction between what I consider a more authentic Hawaiian-inspired pizza — which includes Portuguese sausage and kalua pig — and the ham and pineapple combo that people associate with the name “Hawaiian pizza.”
How did local Hawaiian families react to the ham and pineapple pizza?
Surprisingly, it was often requested and enjoyed by local families as well. It was probably my second or third-most popular pizza at my pizzeria on Kauai. People really liked the sweet and savory balance, even if I personally prefer sweet and savory without the sour component that pineapple brings. It’s fascinating how food evolves and transcends cultural boundaries.
The Evolution of Pizza Toppings and Trends
How has the pizza topping landscape changed since the 1960s and 70s?
Back in the day, toppings were pretty standard and limited: mushrooms, pepperoni, onions, sausage, bell peppers, and maybe garlic. That was considered “the works.” White pies were rare. However, over time, people began to experiment more. For example, some years ago, Tony Geminiani introduced pepperdew peppers, which brought a sweet and savory note reminiscent of deli sandwiches. Then there’s Mike’s Hot Honey — a hot and sweet honey drizzle that has become a big hit on pizzas, especially in New York.
Have you personally embraced these newer trends?
Yes, I have. I make what I call a white pie with olive oil, Parmesan, mozzarella, hot Italian sausage, and sometimes red chili peppers for color. After baking, I drizzle Mike’s Hot Honey on top — the sweet and spicy combo is fantastic. As for pineapple on pizza, I always used canned pineapple because fresh pineapples were too expensive and labor-intensive to prepare. Honestly, I hated handling pineapple and made my staff do it!
Hawaiian Pizza’s Cultural Impact and What’s Next
What’s your take on how Hawaiian pizza affects Hawaii’s image?
I think calling it “Hawaiian pizza” gives Hawaii a bit of a bad rap because it’s not really a Hawaiian invention or tradition. Pineapples were introduced to Hawaii by explorers and thrived there, but pizza itself originated in Italy. Still, Hawaiian pizza is here to stay, no matter where it came from. I encourage people to call it “pineapple pizza” or any other name if they want. The important thing is enjoying what you eat.
Tell us about your new pizza venture, The Conversation, on Kauai.
After six years running two pizzerias on Kauai and dealing with COVID-related closures, I decided to take a step back and return to the craft purely out of passion. The Conversation is a small, neighborhood-style pizzeria where it’s just me and an oven. I want to emulate the simple, authentic pizzerias of the past — no flashy signs, no distractions, just quality New York-style pizza made with love.
It’s takeout only, open just three days a week, making about 30 pizzas a night. I want it to be a place locals know and love, not a tourist magnet. My goal is to bring authentic New York pizza culture to Kauai and create a legacy where kids say, “I grew up on Kauai, and this Italian guy from New York made the best pizza down the block.”
Do you have any final thoughts on Hawaiian pizza or pizza in general?
Pizza is constantly evolving. What started with simple toppings like ham and pineapple paved the way for a wide range of creative combinations. I’m not a purist — I love putting what I enjoy on my pizza at home, but as a business owner, I have to listen to what customers want to stay in business. Hawaiian pizza might have its critics, but it paved the way for new flavors and ideas in the pizza world.
At the end of the day, whether you call it Hawaiian pizza, pineapple pizza, or haole pizza, it’s about enjoying good food and sharing that joy with others.
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