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Pizza is often seen as a simple, beloved comfort food, especially in New York City, where slices are part of the city’s cultural fabric. But for chef Wylie Dufresne, a New York native known for revolutionizing fine dining with inventive techniques, pizza is much more than just a quick bite—it’s an exploration of flavor, texture, and nostalgia, layered with the rich taste of umami.

The Umami Layers of Pizza

Wylie Dufresne describes pizza as “like an umami lasagna,” with layers upon layers of mouthwatering flavor. It’s a dish that captures the essence of umami starting right from the crust, which carries yeasty notes that form the foundation of this savory taste. From the crust, the journey continues to the tomato sauce, ripe tomatoes, and Parmesan cheese—all key ingredients that contribute to the deep, punchy umami flavor that makes pizza irresistible.

“The reason I believe that pizza appeals to virtually everyone is because of umami because it’s just layers of punchy flavor,” Dufresne explains. It’s this complexity and depth that makes pizza universally loved, transcending its simple reputation.

From Fine Dining to Slice Innovation

Dufresne’s culinary career began in fine dining, where he trained under Jean Georges and launched his own acclaimed restaurant, wd~50, in 2003. Over the years, he continued to innovate, opening the more casual Alder in 2013 and even putting a creative spin on desserts like Doux’s Donuts in 2017. Yet, despite his ventures, pizza has held a special place in his heart.

“Pizza saved me,” he says candidly. During the pandemic, when the restaurant industry faced unprecedented challenges, Dufresne found solace in making pizza for his extended quarantine family. Though he had made pizza before, he admits, “Did I really know how to make pizza? I did not.” This period of learning and experimentation sparked a new vision.

By 2023, Dufresne launched Stretch Pizza in Gramercy Park, New York, bringing his inventive approach to this classic dish. “I realized that I really, really, really missed restaurants,” he shared. Rather than returning to fine dining, he chose to focus on pizza that could be shared with a broader audience, perfecting it until he was confident enough to serve beyond his family.

Creative Pies with a New York Twist

Stretch Pizza offers an exciting menu that reflects Dufresne’s roots and imagination. One standout is the “Everything Bagel” pizza, which playfully combines two iconic New York foods. It features cream cheese, bagel spice, and chives atop a cheese base, capturing the whimsical spirit of NYC’s famous everything bagel.

The inspiration for many pies at Stretch Pizza comes directly from Dufresne’s New York upbringing. “My partner and I, we both grew up in New York. So here we are, like, why not just take two classic New York things and bring them together?” he says.

Other pizzas on the menu include:

• The Old Town: Inspired by a grilled cheese from a nearby haunt, this dish features Muenster cheese, mushrooms, and pickled shallots for added acidity.
• Shallots Three Ways: A creative tribute to Dufresne’s days at Jean Georges, showcasing roasted, pickled, and fried shallots with garlic cream and mozzarella.
• The DL: A bacon and onion pizza named after a classic New York combination.
• Classic Slice: Traditional tomato sauce with a twist—Dufresne adds soy sauce to enhance umami, creating a richer, more complex flavor.

Stories Behind the Slices

For Dufresne, the story behind each pizza is as important as the taste. He recalls memories tied to the Old Town pizza, connecting it to his high school days and a beloved Latin teacher who frequented the bar where the original grilled cheese was inspired.

The family also plays a role in the menu, with pies named after his daughters—like “The Nellie,” named for his younger daughter’s middle name, and a baked potato-inspired pizza for his older daughter. “I like the stories,” he says. “People say, ‘What’s your favorite?’ I don’t have one. It’s the process many times that I like more than the end result.”

Beyond Pizza: Nostalgic Soft Serve

To round out the dining experience, Stretch Pizza offers homemade soft-serve ice cream in nostalgic flavors, such as banana with crushed Butterfingers and strawberry shortcake. The wooden spoons add to the retro vibe, tapping into childhood memories with every bite.

Stretch Pizza’s Growing Footprint

In a city bursting with pizza joints, Dufresne is confident that Stretch Pizza will carve out its own place. With locations in Gramercy Park and a new outpost in Brooklyn, as well as plans for further expansion, the focus remains on quality and personal connection.

“Food makes people happy, and I think that’s a great gift that we have to be able to give to people,” he says. “It’s a luxury that we get to do that — to say, ‘Hey, I made this for you, and I hope you like it. I made it from the bottom of my heart.’”

Despite the abundance of pizza shops blocks apart, Dufresne believes New Yorkers appreciate great pizza and that the enthusiasm for high-quality pies is stronger than ever.

Final Thoughts: A Pizza Renaissance Rooted in Tradition and Creativity

Wylie Dufresne’s journey from avant-garde fine dining to crafting pizzas rich with umami and personal stories is a testament to the enduring power of this humble dish. Whether it’s the playful Everything Bagel pizza or the carefully layered shallots three ways, Stretch Pizza invites New Yorkers and visitors alike to experience pizza elevated by creativity, tradition, and heart.

For those in the New York area, Stretch Pizza’s Brooklyn location offers a more casual slice shop vibe, while the Park Avenue South spot features sliders, salads, and soft serve alongside its inventive pies. With Lambrusco on tap and a menu designed to delight, it’s clear that pizza, in Dufresne’s hands, is anything but ordinary.

For more on Wylie Dufresne’s innovative approach to pizza and to watch the full feature, check out the original video by CBS Mornings.